Kenya’s Secondhand Clothing Industry Fights Back Against Misinformation and Punitive Policies
The Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK), representing the vibrant secondhand clothing sector, is pushing back against what it calls a wave of misinformation and ill-conceived policies threatening the livelihoods of millions. This sector, a cornerstone of the Kenyan economy, has long been a champion of circularity and sustainability, yet finds itself increasingly burdened by regulations based on flawed data and fueled by the interests of the fast fashion industry. MCAK argues that over 95% of imported secondhand clothes are not waste, directly contradicting claims that paint the industry as a major contributor to waste management challenges. The organization highlights the economic significance of the sector, supporting 2 million traders and benefiting 6.2 million households who rely on affordable secondhand clothing.
MCAK Chairperson Teresia Wairimu Njenga has spearheaded a global advocacy campaign throughout 2024, engaging with stakeholders across the EU, UK, Ghana, and the US. Njenga’s interactions with textile collectors, sorters, upcyclers, and recyclers revealed a shared concern: escalating costs and restrictive regulations are jeopardizing their businesses and competitiveness against fast fashion. The EU, a key player in shaping international trade policies, is at the forefront of these regulatory changes, setting a precedent that could impact countries like Kenya. MCAK emphasizes the importance of robust research and data to inform policy decisions, warning against the detrimental effects of relying on inaccurate campaigns driven by vested interests.
The association has actively supported and endorsed multiple academic studies conducted in Ghana, Kenya, and Uganda. These studies consistently demonstrate that less than 5% of secondhand clothing imports qualify as waste, debunking the frequently cited but misleading statistic that 40% of imports are waste. This misinformation, MCAK argues, has unfairly targeted the secondhand trade, diverting attention from the real culprits: the overproduction of fast fashion and inadequate local waste management systems. MCAK urges policymakers to focus on these core issues and invest in solutions that address the root causes of textile waste.
The organization champions the role of secondhand clothing in tackling textile overproduction, highlighting its embodiment of the circular economy and its vital contribution to economies like Kenya’s. They criticize the punitive taxes and regulations imposed on the sector despite its proven sustainability. With the EU’s mandatory textile collection slated for 2025, MCAK stresses the need for policies that support reuse, collection, sorting, upcycling, and recycling, targeting new clothing producers rather than hindering circular economy operators. The association warns against the dangers of allowing the demonization of the secondhand trade, emphasizing that such a narrative plays into the hands of fast fashion and exacerbates the global textile pollution crisis.
Njenga forcefully advocates for a shift in focus, directing attention and resources towards addressing the overproduction of fast fashion – the true driver of textile waste – rather than penalizing the secondhand clothing sector, a vital component of the circular economy. She argues that the vilification of the secondhand trade allows fast fashion to escape scrutiny and continue its environmentally damaging practices. Njenga highlights the hypocrisy of holding the secondhand sector responsible for waste management issues while ignoring the overproduction at the source. She calls for policymakers to acknowledge the positive impact of the secondhand clothing industry in extending the life cycle of garments and reducing textile waste.
The MCAK’s campaign underscores the urgent need for accurate data and evidence-based policymaking to support sustainable practices and protect the livelihoods of millions dependent on the secondhand clothing trade. The association calls for global collaboration among reuse and recycling stakeholders to counter the challenges posed by misinformation and unfavorable regulations. They advocate for a more holistic approach to tackling textile waste, focusing on responsible production and consumption patterns rather than simply shifting the burden downstream. MCAK’s advocacy highlights the critical role of the secondhand clothing industry in promoting sustainable development and calls for a just and balanced approach to regulating the global textile industry.